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Alton Brown: EveryDayCook: A Cookbook, by Alton Brown
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About the Author
Alton Brown used to direct TV commercials and cook on the side. Then he got the crazy idea to go to culinary school and reinvent the food show. The result: Good Eats, which kept Brown gainfully employed for fifteen years and earned him a Peabody Award. Along the way he also hosted Iron Chef America and Feasting on Asphalt and wrote seven books in his spare time. In 2013 he launched a live culinary variety show called The Edible Inevitable tour, which played to sold out theaters across the United States. In the spring of 2016, Brown’s new live show, Eat Your Science, toured forty U.S. cities. Brown also hosts the insanely popular Cutthroat Kitchen on Food Network.
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Chapter 1 Breakfast Carbonara Feeds 4 to 6 The way I look at it, if you’re going to eat pasta on a regular basis, you should probably have it for breakfast so you’ve got the whole day to work it off. With that in mind, I offer this riff on carbonara that delivers eggs, sausage, toast, and even a bit of citrus. Now . . . where will I put that Nobel. 1 tablespoon grated orange zest W cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, finely chopped W cup fresh bread crumbs 1 tablespoon kosher salt 8 ounces dry linguine, preferably whole wheat 8 ounces breakfast sausage 2 scallions, thinly sliced 4 large eggs, at room temperature 3 ounces finely grated Pecorino Romano 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1. Combine the orange zest, parsley and bread crumbs in a small bowl. Set aside. 2. Add 2 quarts water, the salt and linguine to a large sauté pan. Cover and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to low and cook for 4 minutes, or until the pasta is al dente. 3. Meanwhile, cook the sausage in a 12-inch cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until brown. Add the scallions and cook until fragrant. 4. While the pasta and sausage are cooking, whisk together the eggs, Pecorino and pepper. 5. Drain the pasta, reserving W cup of the starchy water. Add the pasta to the sausage, tossing the pasta to coat in the fat. 6. Remove from the heat, add the egg mixture, and thin as needed with additional pasta water. 7. Serve immediately with a generous sprinkle of the parsley mixture. Always Perfect Oatmeal Feeds 2 If you think about it before going to bed, go ahead and put the water, oats and salt in the pot and let it sit overnight. The cooking will go even faster. 120 grams thick rolled oats (1 cup) 25 grams quinoa (unrinsed) 475 grams water (2 cups + 2 T) 7 grams kosher salt Combine, cover and place over low heat. After 15 minutes take a peek. If the water doesn’t seem to be absorbing, re-cover, boost the heat a little and cook another 15 minutes. If at any time you see steam shooting out around from the lid, the heat’s too high. Don’t stir during cooking! If you want to add fruit, do so after cooking. Simply kill the heat, place the fruit on top of the oatmeal mixture, re-cover and wait 5 minutes. Buttermilk Lassi Feeds 2 Although I’ve never personally been to the Indian subcontinent, I’m a huge fan of the various dairy-based beverages that go by the name “lassi.” Most include yogurt and fruit of some type. My favorite home version is built instead on buttermilk, which I always seem to have left over from biscuit making, and mangoes, whose funky terpene flavors (kinda like pinesap) balance the b.milk’s acidic snap. 12 ounces cubed mangoes (2 large specimens) 2 cups buttermilk 1 tablespoon freshly grated ginger V teaspoon chili powder V teaspoon kosher salt 4 frozen lassi cubes V ripe cantaloupe, cubed 1 peach, peeled and pitted, or 1 cup frozen peach slices V cup plain low-fat yogurt 1-inch-long hunk fresh ginger V cup almond milk V teaspoon ground turmeric Combine the mangoes, buttermilk, ginger, chili powder and salt in a blender. Puree until smooth. Serve immediately. Or . . . Freeze in ice cube trays and use to make one of my favorite morning smoothies: Place the lassi cubes, cantaloupe, peach, yogurt, ginger, almond milk and turmeric in a blender. Blend until smooth, drink and face a grateful planet. Blueberry Pound Cake Makes 1 Bundt cake, feeds 12 The best cakes are cakes that can arguably be served as breakfast, and this pound cake is a prime example. After all, it contains eggs and dairy and flour and fruit. Serve a thick slice, toasted golden brown, slathered with butter and sprinkled with sea salt, alongside a steamy cup of joe and go forth into your day knowing that no matter what else doesn’t get done in your day, you got your cake in. Go you! 8 ounces (2 sticks) plus 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, at room temperature 15 ounces plus 2 tablespoons sugar 15 ounces all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon baking powder V teaspoon kosher salt 4 large eggs, at room temperature 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 dry pint fresh blueberries (10 ounces or about 2 cups) 1. Heat the oven to 325˚F. Coat a Bundt pan with 1 tablespoon of the butter and 2 tablespoons of the sugar. 2. Cream the remaining 8 ounces butter and remaining 15 ounces sugar in a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment on medium for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, sift together 10 ounces of the flour, the baking powder and salt onto a paper plate. 3. When the butter mixture is pale and fluffy, drop the mixer speed to low and add the eggs, one at a time, waiting for each to be incorporated before adding the next. Follow with the vanilla extract. Then slowly add the flour mixture. 4. Toss the blueberries with the remaining 5 ounces flour. Remove the mixing bowl and fold the berries and flour into the batter with a large rubber spatula. Pour the mixture into the prepared pan. 5. Bake for 75 minutes, or until an instant-read thermometer registers 210˚F. Cool in the pan on a cooling rack for 15 minutes before de-panning and cooling. 6. Serve with . . . your hands. Pho Bo (Beef Pho) Feeds 4 to 6 In the United States we have breakfast cereal. There are dozens of different types and styles and we all have our special ways of eating them. In Vietnam, they have pho. Pho equals breakfast cereal. Cook and eat accordingly. Notice the broth calls for three cuts of beef. You can fudge a bit one way or the other, but I really think this combination makes for a superlative broth, and although the word “pho” actually refers to the rice noodles, the dish is really all about the broth. Beef Broth 1 cinnamon stick 6 whole cloves 2 pods star anise 1 teaspoon whole fennel seed 2-ounce chunk fresh ginger, roughly crushed . . . don’t bother peeling 1 onion, cut into thick slices 3 pounds mixed beef shanks and oxtails 1 pound chicken wings V large Fuji apple, don’t bother peeling 5 teaspoons kosher salt 2 tablespoons fish sauce 1 tablespoon palm sugar To Serve 8 ounces eye of round, sirloin steak, or London broil, thinly sliced (freeze briefly before slicing) 14 ounces thin rice noodles or “sticks” in the B⁄bg-inch range (banh pho) 3 scallions, thinly sliced 2 Thai bird chiles, thinly sliced 1 cup bean sprouts 2 cups fresh herbs, including cilantro, Thai basil and mint 2 limes, quartered SPECIAL EQUIPMENT Pressure cooker, which you should totally have anyway. 1. In a large pressure cooker, toast the spices over medium-high heat until fragrant. 2. Add the ginger and onion and blacken slightly (some of the spices may burn a bit and that’s just fine. 3. Add the meat and bones, wings, apple, salt, sugar and 10 cups of water. Apply the lid according to your cooker’s instructions and bring to full pressure over medium heat. Once the cooker is steaming and whistling, back down on the heat to just maintain full pressure and cook for 30 minutes. 4. Meanwhile, place the eye of round in the freezer for 20 minutes to firm it up, then slice the meat very thinly across the grain. Cover and refrigerate while the broth continues to cook. 5. Remove the broth from the heat and allow to cool naturally for 5 minutes, then slowly remove the pressure. 6. Carefully remove the lid and fish out the meat, vegetables and spices from the broth. Save the shanks and oxtails for serving. Use a fine-mesh strainer to skim any small particles and/or scum from the broth. Stir in fish sauce and palm sugar. 7. When they’re cool enough to handle, slice the cooked shanks. 8. Everything above this line can be done up to a day ahead. When you’re ready to eat, read on. 9. Soak the rice noodles in cold water for 30 minutes, then drain. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil. 10. When you’re really ready to serve, cook the noodles in the water for 10 to 15 seconds so that they are still a bit chewy. Drain thoroughly in a spider. 11. Distribute the noodles into wide soup bowls (better be deep too) and top with the slices of (raw) eye of round and a few pieces of the cooked beef. 12. Cover with hot broth. Serve with the scallions, chiles, sprouts, herbs and limes and let diners garnish as desired.
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Product details
Hardcover: 256 pages
Publisher: Ballantine Books; First Edition edition (September 27, 2016)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1101885718
ISBN-13: 978-1101885710
Product Dimensions:
9.3 x 1 x 9.3 inches
Shipping Weight: 2.3 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review:
4.6 out of 5 stars
407 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#15,606 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
One of the things that I've always appreciated about Alton Brown is that he takes the time not just to explain the "how" of cooking, but also the "why". I've always enjoyed AB's sense of humor, pop culture references, and food science nerdism. That said, I kinda felt I had moved on in the gap between the Good Eats books and this.With EveryDayCook (EDC going forward), AB shows that he has moved on as well. While EDC still contains all the cleverness and food geek knowledge of his previous works, there has been a clear evolution as he has learned more over the years -- both from personal and dietary experience and from techniques he no doubt picked up hosting Iron Chef America. You will find in EDC certain ingredients, tools and methods that may be new to you. For the most part, that's a good thing. While AB certainly doesn't go full-on modernist cuisine, he definitely dips his toe in the pool with such things as the use of a whipping siphon and the use of metric measurements.Which brings me to one of the issues people may have with this book. In a number of recipes, AB uses metric measurements (which will bother some "traditional" home cooks). In some recipes, he'll use a combination of measurements: quantity (3 eggs), volume (1 cup of milk), and weight (55g clarified butter). If weight is critical to the success of a recipe, then you're going to have to grab that digital scale - ideally accurate to a tenth of a gram. If it's not going to impact the recipe, AB will give you the measurement in the easiest and most convenient way. It sure would have been nice, though, for him to give approximate quantities or volume equivalents when he provides metric weights. When making the apple spice bundt cake, for example, I would have known to have 3 sticks of butter at room temperature to hit the required 336 grams.Another thing AB does in EDC that may strike some as odd, but after you give it a moment of thought you'll recognize the sense to it, is that he organizes the book in terms of what time of day you'll be eating - breakfast, lunch, dinner, and the times in between. Rather than a section on pork or poultry, he thinks the way most of us do, i.e. "what should we have for dinner?" Furthermore, most of the recipes are not overly complex. AB wants this to be a book you can use any (or every) day. Many times he succeeds; a number of times he does not.There are some issues I have with these recipes and the way they are presented. Many of them are simply NOT "everyday" recipes. The process for the amaranth wafers took 4 hours from start to finish (more on that below in the "update"). Sadly, the recipes do not list "total time" and "active time" in minutes, so it's hard to be sure of what kind of commitment you're looking at when you start. The recipes are written in paragraph form, with no additional spacing between steps or bolding of the step number, so they sort of blend together into a mass of text. It's almost like AB transcribed his hand-written notes into this cookbook.This brings me to the photography in EDC, which is a double edged sword. It's wonderful, copious, and pretty amazing that it was all done with a smartphone. Unfortunately, a great many recipes are printed on top of these photos, making the recipes even more difficult to read.Ultimately, those hoping for Good Eats Volume 4 are going to find themselves wondering "what happened to the Alton I thought I knew?" Those of us who are curious about how AB has personally evolved as a cook over the last handful of years will likely enjoy this book a great deal.---------------------------------------------------------------------On-Going Updates (Dec 5, 2016): I'll continue to update this review as I work through the recipes, providing my thoughts on those I find note-worthy. - Amaranth Wafers: Ever have a food that you can't tell if you like or not (you'll say "this tastes interesting"), but then can't stop eating it? That's amaranth wafers. While I'm glad I made these, this is NOT an everyday recipe. You will need to candy some orange peel for this recipe (this takes a while and yields enough for 2 batches of these cookies), and AB's instructions for removing the orange rind strike me as the most difficult way to do it -- at least for this recipe. Further, following the recipe left me with a "batter" that did not stick together at all. Adding an additional egg and 2TBs of butter yielded a batter that held together wonderfully. The first time you make this recipe, expect it to take about 4 hours. At least half of that is "active" time.- Barley Water: I include this only because it is one of the recipes that AB promotes in one of his recent podcasts. As I drank it, I thought "this reminds me of a home remedy for irregularity". It is essentially a thick, somewhat bland lemonade. Yet strangely, after my first glass, I wanted more. Perhaps my body just craves fiber. Also, I'm not sure why AB recommends a 3 quart pitcher when the yield is around a quart and a half.- Cold Brewed Coffee (edited 10/29/2016): Wonderful, but if you like iced coffee, just get a Toddy Cold Brew System. It will take you about the same amount of time to brew up an entire pitcher of iced coffee concentrate as it does to make a serving from AB's recipe.- Scrambled Eggs 3.0: Truly an "everyday" recipe. Super fast, super easy, super yummy. I don't prefer them to Ruhlman's or Blumenthal's double boiler scrambled eggs, but these take a fraction of the time and are still fantastic. This really felt like a "Good Eats" recipe, and I mean that as high praise.- Apple Spice Bundt Cake: Extraordinary! The flavor of this cake almost defies description. Who'd have thought that you could use rosemary in a cake? The spices blend together so subtly that it would take a sophisticated palate to recognize them all. I thought that a cake that used 3 sticks of butter would have been a little more moist. The next time I make it, I think I'll throw in a little macadamia nut oil. And maybe boost the rum content of the frosting. Also, this is not really an "everyday" recipe, but definitely a great weekend recipe. Between grinding all of our spices, dicing and shredding apple and chopping ginger and pecan, just getting the ingredients prepped took over 30 minutes. But man, oh man, it was worth it.- Garam Marsalmon Steaks: I have a confession -- I HATE salmon. I pretty much would need to be starving to eat salmon. And yet I found this recipe very edible. I "grilled" these inside on cast iron rather than on a grill, and my wife (who likes salmon) absolutely loved these. The recipe recommends applying the spice blend liberally. I held back a bit and would say that the recipe is right -- the spice blend will not overpower the fish, even if applied like a rub. On cast iron, it forms a wonderful crust. This recipe was very easy and definitely qualifies as "everyday".- Chicken Parmesan Balls and Weekday Spaghetti: I group these together because of the significant overlap between the recipes (the herb oil and sauce are the same). If you have already prepared the herb oil, both of these become "everyday" recipes (the spaghetti more so). I honestly found the spaghetti sauce a little under-powered, flavor-wise. It tasted "fresh" and "authentic", but I just didn't get the herbal punch from the oil that I had hoped for. Don't be afraid of using two anchovies in the sauce -- I promise that it won't taste fishy. The CPBs were very good, though I think they would be even better formed into patties (more surface area to crust up the panko/parmesan) and made into sandwiches. I also confess that I topped this meal with triple the recommended mozzarella (see the pic), but hey, I'm from Wisconsin.- "The Last Pizza Dough I'll Ever Need" - Those are AB's words, not mine. While it won't be the last dough I ever need, it certainly makes for an excellent pizza crust. AB has created a recipe that is extremely easy to make, very easy to handle and shape, and achieves the magical crust attributes of being both crispy and chewy. The crust is crisp enough that it doesn't buckle under the weight of ingredients, yet still retains a very satisfying chew. I've made better tasting pizza crust (typically with 00-Antimo Caputo flour) but not by much, and it wasn't as simple as this. This recipe definitely falls under the category of "everyday" assuming you spent 10 minutes the prior day prepping the dough. Be aware that the crust on this recipe goes from "almost done" to "burned" very rapidly. Keep an eye on it.- Breakfast Carbonara (Dec 5) - Pasta for breakfast, really? I tried this recipe because it was another that AB hyped in one of his podcasts. It was, in a word, delightful. See the picture below. This is definitely a "everyday" recipe, requiring less than 30 minutes to make, and is one of those recipes you can parallel task, prepping all of the components simultaneously and bring them together at the end. Though I would have liked it to be saucier (I may add cream to the egg/cheese mixture next time), that might detract from how light this dish is.
I got the Kindle version. Granted, it only cost 2 bucks, so maybe I shouldn't squawk. But the book is completely unsuited to the Kindle format.. The book begins with "Hardware." First there are two pictures of Alton, presumably in his kitchen, surrounded with all his equipment. In the Kindle, the pix are on separate pages, turned sideways and taking up only half the page. Presumably, there are numbers in the dots, but my aging orbs can't distinguish them. The entire hardware section consists of numbered paragraphs, which I presume correspond to the numbers in the red dots. So, I'm thinking this book isn't suited to the Kindle format.
Every photo in the book was taken on an iPhone. Somehow, that's important to the book...but I can't really explain why. It helps to explain the aesthetic, the style, the...feel of the book. I have most of Brown's other cookbooks, and this one feels most genuine. That's partly because some of the recipes are reworked versions of ones from previous books, and partly because so many of them are just so...different. I loved watching the amaranth pop (like teeny tiny popcorn!), and the byproduct of the candied orange peel: orange simple syrup. I bought some seltzer the next day and make a nice, subtle orange soda, totally homemade. I'd put some orange juice in next time, but man, it was still tastyAnd that's what this book is about: not just about how Alton Brown makes food, but about how you can make something your own. If you don't like the amaranth wafers (which taste good but are dry for my palate), then add some moisture as another reviewer did. If you don't like the barley water (which I thought was perfect), add something sweet. And don't toss the barely, make a salad or something!If this review seems disjointed, that's because it's meant to be. Not because the book is disjointed, but because it feels organic. It feels real, like a real conversation you'd have with a real person. And when you're having a conversation with someone, part of it might be about letting them talk, but part of it is about letting you talk too. Alton said of this book "If you don't like this book, then you don't like me", and to that I'd say "Even if you don't like parts of this book, realize that a conversation needs at least two people. Alton has said his bit, now it's your turn to talk back"
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